Friday, May 27, 2011

WONDERFUL RUSSIAN PLAYWRIGHT, GETTING LOST & CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES!

Thursday:  walked more than 10 miles I am sure; got lost numerous times in the winding Danish streets as I followed insane directions (or lack thereof).  Found the world's best chocolate chip cookies right down the street from my hotel at my new fav Mormor's (where I now can buy my steamed lofat milk with a hint of chocolate without feeling like a fool).  During my foot travels found two killer bakeries selling delicious bread and pastries.  Think La Brea Bakery X 10--that's how large they are.  Got a great night's sleep again; so relieved!

BRIEF COMBINED REPORT:  briefly, the day was about the good (healthy breakfast and the discovery of a delicious egg on the breakfast buffet, chic pea & tomato salad for lunch)
and attending an interesting presentation on theatre for young people in Mexico as a form of resistance against the awful conditions that have been created for them due to the war on drugs plus going to see a staged reading of 5 excerpts of Russian plays (1 of them terrific & I am planning to get the play and mount it) for young people performed by excellent Danish actors
and
the "bad" (but delicious) gorgonzola cheese and bread crust, salad,  fizzy lemon drink & cookie
and
the ugly (getting lost in a bad part of town due to poor directions given by multiple people and missing a show that I had a ticket for--luckily it was not one of the multimedia productions that I came to see!). As I walked home from the train station feeling angry and frustrated, the skies opened up and, like in a Thomas Hardy novel, it began to rain.  And I had not brought my umbrella!

Risk Assessment #5 noted:  spend the money to activate your cellular roaming devices and gps so you can find your way around in strange lands!

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

MORE TERRIFIC THEATRE AND A NEW CONNECTION

Wednesday:  After a great night's sleep (at last and despite the bells) I took a long walk in the park near my hotel searching for the Little Mermaid statue but never found it; will try again tomorrow. Did chance upon a dramatic monument to those who died fighting the Nazis in WW11. Will visit the Danish Resistance Museum tomorrow or Friday.

FOOD REPORT:  with all due respect to my host city, I have had it with cold Danish breakfasts.  I give up.  One of the hotel clerks told me about a small cafe down the street that serves hot oatmeal for 28 crowns (I would pay 100 at this point).  I am definitely going there tomorrow morning!  In the meantime, I had fresh fruit, a little yogurt and muesli, toast and marmelade.  For lunch, a sandwich of thin slices of cheese, tomatoes and cucs (eaten between shows in Malmo).  Dinner from my old friend Cafe Oscar was 2 grilled shrimp skewers with tiny tomatoes and roasted new potatoes.  And a few pieces of really dark Swedish chocolate.  Yum.

FESTIVAL REPORT: Took the train again to Malmo and walked to the first theatre to see "Berlin, 1961" by a German theatre company.  The concept (they used a real small car on stage and it became a million different things--so inventive) was really well executed; the acting, direction and writing very strong and professional.  The play itself would be a bit too controversial for most American teenage audiences; some really sexist and offensive stereotypes (they were equal opportunity satirists--no one escaped--the Russian solider, the American pop star, the wailing German mother, the farmers from the American Midwest) and again, sexual actions that would never fly in the US for minors.

Walked across town to the next theatre with a cheerful producer from Wales who talked about a theatre project she her company would do that would take place on a 3 month voyage at sea (with the young people playing the roles of the actual historical characters).  The second performance that I saw today was stunning.  It was a Brazilian piece called "Almost Nothing" by a company from Sao Paulo that combined what appeared to be video backdrop with actors and wonderful puppets.  It was about the poverty endured by the those living in the slums and shanty towns of Brazilian cities and was done with such grace and style; almost like a series of moving tableaux interspersed with puppet manipulation.  The stage was covered with what appeared to be sand and the sand was used over and over agin to represent the "nothingness" that is given to the poor.  The majority of the piece was just movement (like Viewpoints compositions), music and a puppet or two but then a puppet stage appeared an a traditional Brazilian puppet show with dialogue was performed that mirrored the themes in the live piece.  I spent some time with the director and actors after the show talking to them about their process and exchanging email addresses.  The director was disappointed that the puppet show portion of the piece did not work in context and that the audience didn't get it.  I agreed but stressed to him how meaningful the content was and how beautiful the overall effect had been.  The company is called Sobrevento.  I would love to connect with them and study their style--both the puppet and live forms.  Note: I discovered that what appeared to be a multimedia backdrop was simply a backlit panel with photos of hundreds of feet stapled to it.  A cool technique that I can use!

While waiting for the train, I chatted with a Danish professor of theatre history who told me about a company called Odin Theatre that was born out of work with Growtowski.  Road the train back to Copenhagen with a delightful Russian playwright named Ksenia.  We have sons the same age and it was nice to talk about our kids, our lives and our professions.  She invited me visit her in Moscow and to a reading of 5 excerpts of Russian plays for teens that will be performed in English by Swedish and Danish actors tomorrow at the Russian Culture Center.  Looking forward to attending.  And looking forward (hoping) for another good sleep tonite!

Before we left Malmo, Ksenia told me to throw a coin in the canal --a Russian tradition that is supposed to ensure one returns to a place again. I certainly would not mid coming back.

UNEXPECTED & MOST APPRECIATED CONNECTION WITH LA COLLEAGUES

Tuesday:  church bells (many), rain (some), very little sleep the night before, crazy directions to a small theatre, massive amounts of wandering around the town and getting lost (consequently LOTS of exercise) and a chance connection with 2 delightful theatre folks from LA (Debbie Devin & Jay McAdams from 24th St Theatre) that resulted in dinner at Mama Rosa (Italian/Mexican) restaurant after a not too terrific performance by a French-Canadian company, then a brisk walk home in near freezing weather and guess what?  SLEEP! It has never felt so good to be rested.

FOOD REPORT:  almost missed breakfast but did not really mind.  Cannot take one more bowl of cold cereal.  Where oh where is the hot oatmeal I love each morning?  Am going to search for a cafe that might serve breakfast. Had a cup of stamed milk (for which again I was not charged) at the Festival Center.  Lunch was a hunk of good bread crust, Greek, chickpea and green salad.  And lots of water.  Dinner was pizza (an "Al Capone", hold the ham and light on the cheese which was a joke because there was about a pound of cheese on the limp crust.)  The pizza was tasty but I couldn't really eat much of it.  When the young waiter came to clear our table he asked, "what was wrong with your pizza?"  "Too much cheese".  He replied, "but I told them to use less".  LESS is different in different languages!



FESTIVAL REPORT:  a really mediocre production of a play called "Starved" about teen angst; poor acting, poor direction, so-so visual effects save for one moment when the teen was ranting and chanting and the video images were of him disintegrating into pieces---that was powerful.  Debbie & Jay were sitting in front of me; we had reintroduced ourselves to each other before the show and afterwards I asked if they would mind if I joined them  for dinner.  (OK, I admit it, I have been feeling isolated and I jumped at the chance to sit and eat with like-minded, intelligent, creative and funny --we had lots of laughs-- colleagues.)  Dinner was fun and it was a welcome change to converse while eating.  And then Debbie said they were paying for me.  Too generous.  I owe them a pizza in LA and hope to see them again soon--if not at the Festival, then back home.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

FINALLY, THE HOPED FOR DIALOGUE WITH THE DIRECTORS

MONDAY

Today I will try to be brief.  I am getting the feeling that I am writing too much, but then again, I have a lot to say!

Food report:  finally found a little take out shop right down the street from the hotel called Chilimili.  Advertises itself as serving "really healthy food". Guess what?  They do.  I had a combo of sides:  chickpea salad, "spicy bulgar" (that was actually whole wheat couscous), and lentil salad.  Just the fiber I was pining for.  That,  accompanied by a really good tzatziki and a little bread and lots of water felt really good.  I know you are supposed to honor the food of the country that you are visiting, but Copenhagen is very cosmopolitan and seems to serve some of everything.  And if you don't eat meat, creamed soups or pickled fish, it is hard to branch out.  So I will not beef guilty.  (I may have to try the Mexican place around the corner just out of curiosity)

FESTIVAL REPORT:  At the Festival center, I saw an installation called "Happy Glimmer" done by a French visual artist who regularly collaborates with theatre companies. It was delightfully “low tech” but with all the elements of visual effects that might be done with a computer. I am going to see a production on Saturday for which he did the visual effects; will report more then.  I spent some time talking with him and his colleagues after I saw the installation and he walked me thru each exhibit and explained how the effects were done.  He had used miniatures, simple lights, lenses from various sources and screens.  Very compelling and doable.  I am going to think about using this technique next fall.

In the evening, after a long and winding walk to a small theatre in the 4th floor walk up of a 1970’s style coffee house (American pop star and folk posters lining the walls; a Bob Dylan tribute scheduled for that evening), I saw what has to be the most unique production I have ever witnessed:  “The Girl From Leningrad”, by a Russian company, is an anti fascist puppet show mixed with video and still images of the Siege of Leningrad combined with contemporary video footage.  For ages 12 and up, it was a history lesson like I might choose to do but with unbelievable visual effects.  Hard to explain in brief--at times is appeared that the puppets were in the vido as 3D images.  (Really amazing  but too long.  This seems to be a theme here--over written pieces that could use a good 10-20 minutes chopped off.  Every single person, no matter from what country, has remarked about this). However, the story line was so powerful and I was a bit saddened but not surprised to learn that most Russian children are not being taught the history of this brave fight that the Red Army waged against Hitler’s attempt to starve and destroy the city.  This is why the company chose to do this piece, to honor those who fought and died and survived.  A slide at the beginning says:  “This is dedicated to our grannies”.  I get chocked up just typing it.

I spent some time talking to the director after the performance and he showed me "backstage"; the puppets, the light set up, the screen, the puppet props.  Then he explained how they were able to use front projection that left a space for the “actors” (the puppets).  I took his card—he has a theatre school in Boston where he teaches puppet technique and incorporating the multimedia.  A year from now when he is finished touring I may try to connect with him there.

With images and emotions swirling in my head I will try to sleep and am looking forward to Tuesday’s adventures!

Monday, May 23, 2011

BUT IS IT REALLY "THEATRE"?

I have come to accept that my mode of functioning here in Denmark will be to fall sound asleep between 11-midnight, sleep for a few hours, then stay awake until I can't anymore.  Then sleep some more.  So here I am at 1:51 AM.  Thoughts about Sunday's productions swirling around in my brain.

Today (or by now I should say yesterday) was a great day.  Full of walking, talking and seeing performances. Meeting new people, finding common language stimulating and familiar.  And finally feeling "part of" this experience.

Taking the train to Malmo, Sweden was less complicated and more efficient than I had expected, albeit with a few odd twists.  When I have traveled outside of the US or even to other cities like NY or San Francisco, people generally take me for a local.  Not sure why that is. In other countries, I am usually not taken for an American (often a point of pride since many Americans are not looked on too fondly). This came into play today on the train when a Swedish man was standing over me barking an order to me--first in Swedish, then in German!  At first I didn't know he was talking to me, then I looked up and he kept saying something about "platzen".   Having grown up with a mother who spoke lots of Yiddish to her relatives and friends when she didn't want me to know what she was talking about and being a lover of German theatre, art and culture, I knew enough German to figure out he was referring to wanting to collapse or maybe sit down.  When I still didn't move, he switched to English, telling me in no uncertain terms that he had reserved this seat and showed me his ticket.  I immediately apologized and moved.   Also, if you have occasion to ask a Swede or a Dane for walking directions, please be on guard.  Many seem to say "it's just around the corner" or "it's only a few hundred meters" much like we from LA say, "it's not far" or "it's just across town". Just like the visitor to LA who drives for 45 minutes to an hour to get some place that we take for granted is all in a days typical distance, so I found myself walking long distances to get to various theatre venues, stores, etc.  Stopping along the way to make sure I was on the correct route, each person I met said "oh yes, its just up ahead". I  have been getting LOTS of exercise which is a really good thing since fat free milk seems to not exist in any coffee bar (nor does decaf as I pointed out yesterday.  I was given my second cup of free steamed milk yesterday by a barista who found my desire for a latte without the coffee either quaint or just too pathetic and did not include it on my bill)

The first production I saw was "Two Dimensional Life of Her": stunning visual images, almost scary; layer upon layer of video projections, props, over the top sound effects, gigantic shadows --or were they shadows?; animated puppet-like figures made of either cut paper or just pencil drawings; images of this woman, cleaning and scraping and searching; and FIRE!  At one moment, the entire room was on fire, flames leaping from giant video screens, the sounds of fire flames crackling and roaring and we were trapped.  Then a woman--the artist/performer appeared and talked to the audience and to her creations and demanded that they show us a happy ending.  More images, then she climbed back into her video image twin and waved to us as a signal for us to applaud.  Then it was over.  But was it theatre? Or was it a film?

Certainly, the visual elements were captivating.  The perf was for ages 10 and up and it would seem to me that much of it would have frightened most 10 year olds that I know. (However, according to an  article in the Assitej journal, what is age appropriate for American children in comparison to children in most other parts of the world (particularly Europe) is very different.  What was missing was STORY and actors.  Like a giant video game, the series of images just kept coming at you, pulling you along for the ride.  But I was at the Theatre and I expected actors or at least live or shadow puppets.  Instead, I felt like I was at the movies and that the screens just happened to be on a stage interspersed with some dramatic props .  And when the actor/creator did appear for a few moments, the “acting” was so poor and the effect so anticlimactic, that it would have been better if she had stayed backstage.

Conclusion:  there is absolutely a way to utilize all of the technology that she employed heighten a theatre piece.  But I would have to begin with a compelling story and effective acting and then layer it with the multimedia effects.  It would be exciting for kids to see and would certainly draw them into the live theatre experience.

Risk Assessment #4 noted:  as indicated in the conference materials, we were to have been able to converse with the artist after the show.  This did not happen.  However, there will be an opportunity to meet with other participants to discuss our responses to the shows is various “Tea Time” moderated discussions.

The second show I saw was a South African piece called “Every Year, Every Day I Am Walking” (for ages 13 and up) about the growing number of children left homeless and dislocated due to ongoing African wars. Performed by two actresses, it was moving but over written.  It went on forever, repetitive scenes and motifs that could have been accomplished in 30 minutes instead of 70.  That said, the most interesting aspect was the use of VERY low-tech effects accomplished by the use of children's toys as props, cutout paper dollhouse scenery, a pop up wire mesh “city”  and real fire!  Yes, the actor literally burned the paper house down.  Flames engulfed it and it fizzled.  Again, at the end of the piece, she burned letters--this time in a metal tub.  The interesting thing was that the video fire in “2 Dimensional Life” was more real to me than the actual fire in “Walking”. The actual fire took me out of the theatrical zone and into worrying about whether or not the stage would catch fire while the video fire catapulted me deeply into theatrical super-reality.

I returned to Copenhagen by train, riding with a young woman from Philly who was studying theatre for the VERY young--ages 6 mos to 6 years.  There is a large contingent of folks here interested doing theatre for that age and a number of performances geared for that age group

After searching for a restaurant that was open (most close on Sundays) I returned to my local Cafe Oscar and talked the chef into making me pasta w/veggies.  I also had a delicious grilled shrimp skewer.  Oh how I long for food made without lots of butter and oil!  And, once again I was given a free steamed milk.  The kind barista could not bear to charge me for a latte without coffee

More to see and do on Monday.  Excited about the prospects!

Sunday, May 22, 2011

OFF TO SWEDEN

After being awakened about 6 different times to the sound of numerous church bell "concerts" at all hours of the night and morning, I went down to the breakfast buffet for (yet again) yogurt, fruit, muesli and a little bread and cheese, tomato and cucumber.  In a few minutes I will be on my way to the train to Malmo, Sweden to see what I hope will be a brilliant production.  From Australia, "2 Dimensional Life of Her" (http://www.assitej2011.info/side.asp?lang=3&side=15&id=254) is the reason I was initially interested in coming to the conference.  From the program description, this performance artist does exactly what my fellowship research focus is all about.  She uses multi media (as well as visual arts techniques) to create a compelling theatrical experience.  Stand by for more after I see the show.

By the way, do not believe the weather channel (or any other) forecast for Denmark. According to today's online info, it is suposed to be sunny and 76 degrees.  At this moment, it is raining.  Good thing I brought a swell raincoat and umbrella!  (as soon as I typed this, the rain stopped and the sun came out.  Good thing my raincoat folds up into a small square and fits in my backpack)

Saturday, May 21, 2011

UNFORESEEN PERKS AND PITFALLS: "risk assessment" come to life!


Last night was rough.  I had planned to go on the journey to Malmoe for the opening gala performance but I, like others who arrived terribly jet lagged and exhausted, did not make it there. I laid down to take a short nap and woke up too late to get to the bus that would take me to the train that would take me to the other train to Malmoe!  My original plan had been to spend the travel day and the next day recovering, getting to know the city and getting adjusted.  I was correct to make this plan and should have just given in to it.  
(Risk Assessment #1 notated)  That is actually what has transpired.  Read on....  

After eating a small dinner of a smoked salmon sandwich (inferior bread--I only ate the bottom crust & too much mayo-based "herb cream"), I fell asleep in what seemed to still be the light of day at about 9:30 PM Denmark time (which was actually 8 hours earlier LA time) and woke up at 2:45 AM and could not get back to sleep.  The sky began to get light at around 4:45 AM and I was wide awake.  I began to get worried that I would not be able to sleep at all during this trip; I texted my family, full of angst, and a response came back to me from my son telling me to "relax".  This apparently did the trick, because I finally got back to sleep and slept for about 3 more hours until I was awakened by the church bells--there is a huge church behind the hotel and the bells ring day and night.  It's a good thing they only ring to mark the hours late at nite and from 1-6 AM, otherwise I would be doomed!  A bell concert is going on right now for no apparent reason; the second one within an hour.


After eating healthy choices from the massive  and delicious buffet that comes with the room charge, I spent all late morning and this afternoon solving my laptop charger problem (I had failed to bring a converter for the 220 voltage and my laptop was on the verge of battery demise).  I walked for blocks and blocks following several different people's directions to places where I could buy such an item.  I finally found the little electrical shop and a kindly man not only changed some of my Euros to Danish money (by the way, the festival organizers told us that we could use Euros everywhere in both Denmark and Sweden--wrong; no one wants to accept the Euros so all of my proudly acquired Euros are of no value; I am changing them. Through this quest however, I got to know the area, found a supermarket so I could buy some bottled water and a yogurt drink for my queasy stomach--traveling is hard on the digestion!


Back at the hotel, I plugged my laptop charger into the newly purchased converter and it worked for a few minutes---I actually got up to 31%!  Then the laptop stopped charging.  I was sooo frustrated.  I took it down to the festival center office, they charged it for me to about half battery and then I decided to go to the Apple store, thinking my charger was broken and that I needed to buy another one. Now at a real Apple store, the peppy salespeople would have been right on it, immediately diagnosing the problem before I had a chance to fully explain.  But this was a faux Apple store with a small section in the back of a video store reseved for Apple products and both of the young salesmen were a bit mystified by what to do.  It didn't help that their English was minimal and my Danish non-existent.  Luckily, a friendly teenage customer knew exactly what I needed.  He told them to give me the 220 piece that fits into the Mac charger.  It worked!  I was all set to buy it when the guy told me to keep it--no charge.  As I walked to the metro I realized that I have one of these at home in a drawer--it came with the laptop--I just never knew what it was for.  Oh well, at least now I have a functioning computer so I can continue to fulfill my blogging commitment.  (Risk Assessment #2 notated)

By the way, if you come to Denmark, do not expect to be able to find decaf in a restaurant or most coffee bars.  While my laptop was receiving its first charging, I went into the festival centre cafe for what I hoped would be my ritual cup of decaf with half soy milk and half non fat milk (my good friend who is a Pete's double espresso type calls it a "why bother") only to find that there was no decaf and no non fat or soy milk.  I settled for a cup of steamed (probably whole---horrors) milk and a pear. The young man behind the counter must have felt so sorry for me--he refused to charge me for the milk!

This festival is really labor intensive to navigate.  The theaters are very far apart and if you want to see multiple performances in one day you have to really plan your time efficiently.  The location of the presentation I was going to attend today got switched and I had to scrap if because I did not have enough time to get there.  I am going to have to give myself at least 2 hours tomorrow morning to get to Malmoe for the two performances I plan to see. (Risk Assessment #3 notated)

As I eat my dinner of 
asparagus, roasted new potatoes and grilled swordfish (a bit dry---ok, it's a hard fish to get just right but at $28.50 American, they should be able to pull it off), I am looking forward to a good night's sleep, a fully charged laptop (now up to 67%) and a full day of theatre and bus/metro and train travel.....

Friday, May 20, 2011

ARRIVED IN COPENHAGEN!

I have arrived after a very long and uneventful flight.  First from LAX to Toronto, then on to Copenhagen. The plane was an hour earlier leaving from Toronto than had been indicated on the itinerary and I almost missed it.  Luckily I listend to the boarding announcement carefully and ran to the gate just in time.

The festival team was delightfully helpful at the airport and I got to the hotel in record time by metro and bus.  Everyone is friendly and it is a gas to hear so many different languages being spoken all at one time.  Copenhagen, what little I have seen of it so far, is charming.  Very old, cobbled streets, beautiful gardens and a park right across from my hotel. The weather is unbelievably fair--not cold at all like I was expecting.  But it can change at any time I am told.

My hotel room is small, just enough for one person to feel cozy. It is an attic room with a window that opens for fresh air.  Very clean and simple.  I am going to journey to the festival center to check in later today, then on to the Malmo opera house of the opening gala performance event.

I forgot to bring a voltage converter so I may run out of battery for my laptop before long.  Will buy one tomorrow--for some reason everything is closed today.  It must be a holiday?  will find out.

More anon....

Monday, May 16, 2011

Finishing up and getting ready....

As luck (or fate) would have it, I have a performance going up at Sequoyah the night before I leave for Copenhagen!  A wonderful piece that I adapted from the same project I did last year at LACHSA---about children in Japanese American internment camps and a cut version of A Thousand Cranes about the aftermath of the bombing of Hiroshima.  Crazy busy (making final adjustments to a very simple slide show---I actually did my first power point without assistance) and soooo impressed with the studnets' work.  I am excited about the prospect of taking the mental images of their wonderful work with me to the festival.

On a sadder (frustrating) note, the First Year project at LACHSA performs when I am in Denmark.  I love the work I have created with the students (all of the first year teachers have taken on ancient creation and flood myths and I have also produced a student written "modern myth"------and will not get to see it (I have my final rehearsal with them tomorrow).  Luckily, I have wonderful and talented colleagues who will oversee the work in the final stages.

I wish I could take a group of students to perform for their peers in a far off land.  Perhaps my multimedia techniques will make that happen----even tho it will be from a distance.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

ALMOST TIME TO TRAVEL!

I am getting more and more excited about my upcoming trip the the ASSITEJ theatre festival.  I was feeling a bit daunted by the thought of landing in the Copenhagen airport and having to sort out the logistics.  Although I am a great independent traveler, I haven't been abroad for many years and never totally on my own.   Then received an email from the conference team with details about how there will be a manned conference station at the airport and we will be guided to the ground transportation.  Very relieved.  Coincidentally, just heard a feature about Danish customs on The Splendid Table.  The Danes are apparently VERY into being "cozy", attentive and nurturing to their guests.  I am looking forward to being taken into the Danish fold!